Field notes,
essays, verse

Ghulam Hussain has kept the same planting calendar for forty years. This March it failed him for the third time running.

Every Balti kitchen I’ve sat in has a wall of copper and pewter nobody actually uses. I spent a winter working out what the wall was for.

Two families in Turtuk turned their homes into museums. No curator, no grant, no wall text. What they built is more interesting than what an agency would have built for them.